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Dear Tanzania Customs and Immigration Authority

This is the text of a letter I sent to the above authority: To whom it may concern, When applying for a temporary import permit for a motorcycle at your Namanga border post on 3 April 2013, your deputy...

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Gone Fishing

If Lake Victoria was the Carribean Sea, Rubondo Island would be Cuba — in Ernest Hemingway’s mind at least. But during the writer’s time in Africa, his sights hovered between the curvaceous horns of...

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Born in the Sun

A pair of Verraux’s Eagle-Owls were witness to my humiliation. They called from an Acacia tree as we crouched in the grass, spying on a tusker. Wildlife Guide, Lewis Mangaba, pulled out a little bag...

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Dodging crocs on chimp island

Tanzania’s Rubondo Island National Park in Lake Victoria is a place where chimpanzees live wild, Nile perch prowl the depths and crocodiles surf the waves. Come, the forest is calling.

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